Revised Needle and Hook

Here’s another free book, the full title of which is Revised Needle and Hook: Instructions in Silk Embroidery, Knitting and Crocheting, Illustrated with cuts, half tones and color plates. It’s available online from the Antique Pattern Library, and originally published by Belding Bros. and Co. in 1902. This is another of the needlepainting/silk shading/thread painting/long and short stitch books. I like the designs in A treatise on embroidery better on average, but this book does a more thorough overview of embroidering plants. It starts with a little over 8 pages of discussion going through each part of the flower, and stitching, shading, convex vs concave petals, view from above vs below, etc:

petalsleaves

Many of the designs are provided with not just an outline, but a numbered diagram, a flow chart indicating stitch direction, and exposition on additional details:

“It is advisable to begin the work with the back and center petals. The veining of the leaves should be very distinct and the edges sharp and jagged”

“The streaks which appear on the berries are put in with fine outline stitches after the berries are finished, with the lightest green, 1720.”

poppy diagram

Anyway, here’s a few designs available in the book:

blackberries and gooseberriesflowers

And I will finish the review on a high note, with this rather cool outline of a batch of chrysanthemums:

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Goldwork

Goldwork is usually pricey, and I personally don’t like a lot of the goldwork designs I’ve seen. For me, they overfocus on the gold. I prefer goldwork pieces that incorporate gold as a part of the design. That said, I’d like to introduce two companies with some really gorgeous goldwork kits/patterns. (I’ve linked the photos to the kit descriptions online).

First, the Mary Jane Collection (UK company). I bought their lovely Chrysanthemum kit in a going-out-of-business sale several years ago from my favorite online needle store Kaleidostitch. (I miss you, Kaleidostitch!) The threads are rayon, and combined with the gold the results are elegant and glossy. I’m getting close to finished (just need to finish the stem and outline the petals in gold). The stem is giving me a bit of trouble, but I’m sure it’ll work out.

chrysanthemum in goldwork

This chrysanthemum was my first goldwork piece. Properly pulling the goldwork ends through the fabric without damaging the thread is a little bit of a pain,  but it’s coming out very well. They also have a fantastic set of crewel embroidery designs, which I will post about some other time.

The second company is Rajmahal (an Australian company). I have their Stargazer Lily kit (bought at a discount at some other shop, also no longer available there, so you’ll have to hunt down a shop yourself), but I’m saving it a little longer until I’ve practiced long-and-short stitch more. I think I might have to set it up on stretcher bars instead of a hoop too.  The design and silks are so fine that I want to be sure I can do it justice. This is the kit photo from their site (although it’s even better in person):

goldwork and silk lily kit

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Brazilian embroidery

This is fun stuff – shiny (rayon) threads and 3D flowers. I’ve linked all the pictures to the kits available online. Here’s an example I stitched (it’s about 4 inches total):

brazilian embroidery flowerssideways view of brazilian embroidery flowers

It’s a tiny kit from a site (JDR Brazilian Elegance) that specializes in Brazilian embroidery. The Sunshine’s Treasures range,  will get you everything (needles, threads, fabric, instructions, frame) for $11. Yes, the diagrams and instructions are very clear and if you are still worried you can get their learning kits, which are beautiful themselves. Here’s an example (their picture, I haven’t stitched it):

Japanese violets learning kit in Brazilian embroidery

They have hundreds of other designs and kits, all in Brazilian embroidery.  A few quick examples (since I love looking at them): A rose, a buttercup,

Rose in Brazilian embroiderybuttercup bouquet in brazilian embroidery

and sweet peas:

Sweet peas in Brazilian embroidery

EdMar Co also has Brazilian embroidery patterns. (http://edmar-co.com/catalog/patterns/patterns.html).

There are some free designs available at another site, Brazilian Dimensional Embroidery International Guild (my favorite is the Minuet), although the directions aren’t as clear for a beginner.

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Pillowcase edging

Here is a pillowcase edging from a stamped kit I received as a Christmas present last year:

embroidered pillowcase edge

This doesn’t correspond exactly to the kit  – it sprouted while I was working on it. I’ve labeled the additional flora in the closeup below:

pillowcase closeup

I think it came out quite nice.

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Stitch dictionaries!

I’m pretty excited – I discovered an amazing treasure: the Henry Art Gallery Stitch Identification Guide at http://dig.henryart.org/embroidery-stitches/first_level_pages/contents.htm. This resource is maintained by the Henry Art Gallery at the University of Washington in Seattle, and was created through analyzing “the stitches on approximately 3,500 pieces in the Henry Art Gallery Collection including items from China, India, Eastern Europe, Central Asia, the Middle East, and other embroidery traditions.” Not only do they have an extensive stitch dictionary with diagrams and references, their  collection of textiles has been photographed, tagged by the stitches identified in them, and is searchable online (by stitch!) at http://henryart.org/collections.

A few more stitch dictionaries:

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Candlewicking difficulties

So, I’ve been working on a sculptured stitchery and candlewicking kit Majestic Balloons designed by Roger W. Reinardy, and available from Janlynn. It’s called sculptured stitchery because the design is backstitched over cotton batting to create a 3D effect around the balloons. The colonial knots creating the big dots and the straight stitches are the candlewicking part of the design, done in candlewicking thread. There’s also some satin and stem stitch in floss for additional decoration.

hot air balloons candlewicking kit

You do most of the stitching before attaching it to cotton batting. This is my progress so far:

my progress on the balloons kit

I love the satin and stem stitching – it’s super glossy and stands out well, a whole lot more than I originally thought it would when I saw the beige colors of the floss. But all is not well. I tried adding in some of the knots and straight stitches in the candlewicking thread:

closeup of candlewicking area of design

I hate it. The candlewicking thread is incredibly dull next to the floss (it’s even worse in person). The knots are ugly monsters. I can’t imagine adding dozens of them all over the place. I’m not going to ruin a perfectly lovely design like that. I stopped at knot #2. I’ll be ripping that out, putting more floss in its place, and I’m going to do all the knots a lot smaller. All I have to do is decide on coloring, something that will complement the existing colors.

P.S. There are two more designs in the same style by the same artist: Lighthouse and Ocean’s Edge. Both look great, although I would almost certainly end up axing the candlewicking thread on those as well.

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Cross stitch

I won’t be discussing cross-stitch often, since I rapidly lose interest in making billions of identical little x’s. But, if you’d like some exotic cross-stitch designs, take a look at PINN Cross Stitch (it’s a Thai company). It’s still affordable even though they’re overseas. I ordered one of their embroidery kits once, and it arrived quickly. If I liked cross-stitch I would try some of the smaller traditional Thai dancer patterns in the Thai Culture category. Here’s an example from their site (photo linked to the kit):

cross-stitch kit of thai dancer

I do have two tiny projects in cross-stitch of my own. This one is a small orchid from Dimensions (photo linked to the kit):

orchid cross stitch

I like the Daydreams range because the kits come with a frame. This project a friend brought me from London:

cross-stitch of bridge in london

Sadly, it’s been sitting like this for several years. Some day it will look like a bridge.

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A treatise on embroidery

I’d like to recommend an amazing book on needlepainting. It is completely free because it was published in 1907 and is therefore public domain: A treatise on embroidery; with twenty color illustrations from original models by Hemingway & Sons Silk Co. Clicking on any of the images in this post will take you to a larger picture.

There are a lot more designs in the book than the ones depicted in the twenty color plates. Here’s three of the color photos of stitched examples:

chrysanthemumWild rosestrawberries

Gorgeous, aren’t they? The book also has detailed diagrams with color placement instructions, pattern outlines, and each design also comes with several paragraphs of text instructions on stitch placement, shading, and anything else required to work the piece.

color diagram for strawberry embroideryexcerpt of wild rose description

The book also offers general information for improved stitching of flowers and other designs, including for example the parts of a flower so that embroiderers understand and respect the underlying structure:

parts of a flower diagram and discussionwheat and flax embroidery

The book also has an introductory section, with a stitch dictionary (some of which I haven’t seen elsewhere), general embroidery information, and illustrations of variations on stitches as inspiration. Here’s some examples (I love the leaves):

Diagrams of different stitchesleaves in a variety of stitches

It really is a wonderful book. Do let me know if you work any of the patterns. I’d love to see the results.

P.S. Turns out, one of my very favorite needlework blogs mentioned this book too (but from a different free source – I think this scan has better colors): Mary Corbet’s post.

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the etymology of embroidery

(an update to the About page!)

embroider: late 14th century, from the Anglo-French word enbrouder, from the prefix en- meaning “in” (see en- (1)) plus broisder “embroider,” from Frankish  *brozdon, from Proto-Germanic  word *bruzdajanan. Influenced by Old English brogden, past participle of bregad “to weave” (see braid). Spelling with -oi- is from cerca 1600, perhaps by influence of broid “braid.”

Extended explanation: (from here)

  • Anglo-French the French spoken in England from the Norman Conquest in 1066 through the Middle Ages; the administrative and legal language of England 12th-17th century
  • Frankish West Germanic language of the Franks, inhabitants of northern Gaul 5th-6th century, their descendants ruled France, Germany, Italy in the 9th century, and the language had strong influence on French.
  • asterisk (*) Words beginning with an asterisk are not attested in any written source, but they have been reconstructed by etymological analysis, such as Indo-European *ped-, the root of words for “foot” in most of its daughter tongues.
  • Proto-Germanic hypothetical prehistoric ancestor of all Germanic languages, including English
  • Old English the English language as written and spoken cerca 450 through cerca 1100.
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Bird Brocade

I recently started working on the Bird Brocade kit (crewel embroidery) by Elsa Williams from Janlynn.

crewel bird kit

I like the design, but this kit has a whole lot of satin and long+short stitch, and I prefer a lot of different stitches. So I’m mixing it up. Here’s my progress so far:

progress on Bird Brocade

and here is a closeup with the stitches labeled:

bird brocade picture with stitches labeled

So my current dilemma is that I altered one of the flowers but I’m thinking I don’t like the effect. The dark red line of double french knots is a little overpowering compared to the pale yellow. I’m trying to decide what to do about it.

flower looks bad, what to do?

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